Aspen is a special place for us, and we spend a lot of time here in every season. It's something uncommon in the US: a real ski town. Aspen is a proper gridded town with its own streets and neighborhoods, not a manufactured "ski Disneyland" owned by a single company. It isn't the place for a budget-conscious trip, but it rewards the people who come back again and again.
Where to Stay in Aspen
For couples, stay in the town of Aspen itself. That's where the character is. We know the town extremely well but haven't personally stayed at these hotels. We'd still recommend every one.
Hotel Jerome
Main Street, Aspen
Aspen's historic grand hotel, right on Main Street and an easy walk to everything in town. If you're choosing between the Jerome and the Little Nell, this is the one we'd pick. It simply has more character.
Great for: couples. Our pick for staying in town.
The Little Nell
Base of Aspen Mountain
The in-town choice for ski-in, ski-out. It sits at the foot of Aspen Mountain, so if getting on the lift with the least effort matters most, this is the place.
Great for: couples who want to ski from the door.
The St. Regis Aspen Resort
Downtown Aspen, near the base of Aspen Mountain
The one to book if you're using points, since it's part of Marriott Bonvoy. An excellent hotel in its own right, and in our opinion it has the best spa in town.
Great for: couples, points travelers, spa days.
White Elephant Aspen
West End, Aspen
One of two newer hotels that sit a little lower on Aspen's price spectrum (which, to be clear, is still Aspen). A boutique hotel on the edge of the West End, a short walk from the center of town.
Great for: couples looking for a little more value.
MOLLIE Aspen
Downtown Aspen
The other newer, slightly gentler-on-the-wallet option in town, with a relaxed boutique feel. Petit Trois, the French bistro on the ground floor, is a nice bonus.
Great for: couples looking for a little more value.
Where to Stay in Snowmass
For families who want a more contained ski-resort feel, Snowmass, a short drive from Aspen, can be a good option. You lose some of the unique Aspen experience, but you gain a self-contained village built around the slopes.
Viceroy Snowmass
Snowmass Village
A polished, full-service hotel in Snowmass Village, and one of the two places we point families to when Snowmass is the right call.
Great for: families.
Limelight Hotel Snowmass
Snowmass Base Village
A relaxed, easygoing hotel right in Snowmass Base Village, next to the Elk Camp Gondola.
Great for: families.
Breakfast & Coffee
Swedish Hill
Rooftop of the Aspen Art Museum
Our go-to for coffee in town. A beautiful rooftop with a view straight across to the mountain, plus good pastries. It also works as a solid, casual café for a light lunch.
Great for: coffee and a slow breakfast with a view.
Sant Ambroeus Coffee Bar
Hyman Avenue, downtown Aspen
Another easy, quick coffee stop in the middle of town.
Louis Swiss Bakery
Aspen Business Center, across from the airport
The best breakfast burrito in the valley, hiding somewhere you'd never think to look. The "Aspen ABC" (technically the Aspen Business Center) is really a light industrial park across from the airport, and Louis Swiss is near the back. If you're driving out to Snowmass for the day to ski, bike or hike, it's right on the way. Get the breakfast burrito, ask for extra hot sauce, and enjoy.
Worth the detour.
Paradise Bakery
Galena Street, downtown Aspen
For a simple takeout coffee and muffin in the morning, and just as good après, when it serves the best ice cream and cookies in town. The local move is a bag of "chippers": really just mini cookies, but more fun.
Great for: morning coffee, après treats, kids.
Cheap Eats
For an inexpensive lunch in town, these are the two we go to.
The Big Wrap
Durant Avenue, downtown Aspen
A local favorite for wraps and burritos.
Grateful Deli
Main Street, downtown Aspen
Sandwiches with Grateful Dead-themed names, and an easy, inexpensive lunch.
Casual Dinners & Après
Meat & Cheese
Hopkins Avenue, downtown Aspen
Our favorite dinner spot in Aspen. It's not fancy. It's our Aspen version of that comfy neighborhood place you keep going back to. Get the bo ssäm board.
Our favorite dinner in town.
Clark's Oyster Bar
Hyman Avenue, downtown Aspen
Simple but great food, and not too fancy, with a similar atmosphere to Meat & Cheese. The cocktails are good, and if you don't have a reservation, happy hour at the bar is a good bet.
No reservation? Try the bar at happy hour.
Mt. Rubirosa
Base of Aspen Mountain
Very solid, casual pizza and Italian food at the base of Aspen Mountain.
Great for: families, an easy night out.
Home Team BBQ
Base of Buttermilk
A Charleston barbecue spot with an outpost in a low-key hotel at the base of Buttermilk, a short drive out of town. It's not exactly about the ambiance (it's a BBQ joint), but it's great. Order whatever you like, but add the smoked wings with death relish.
Highlands Alehouse
Base of Aspen Highlands
We'd argue it's the best après in the valley. Classic après pub food, a big sunny patio, strong drinks, and often a DJ or live music.
Great for: après-ski.
Fine Dining
There's plenty of fine dining in Aspen, but these are our favorites.
Betula
Cooper Avenue, downtown Aspen
French-Panamerican cooking and good cocktails, right in the middle of town.
Matsuhisa
Main Street, Aspen
Chef Nobu Matsuhisa's Japanese and sushi restaurant, right on Main Street.
Petit Trois
MOLLIE Aspen, downtown
The Aspen outpost of the Los Angeles French bistro, on the ground floor of MOLLIE, serving elevated French comfort food.
Aosta Ristorante
Durant Avenue, downtown Aspen
Italian with an Alpine accent: fresh pasta, fondue and pizza in a warm, rustic room.
Things to Do: Winter
Winter is all about skiing, and each of the four mountains suits a different kind of skier.
Buttermilk
Just outside town
Where beginners and families with young kids should head. Strong ski school options and easier terrain make it the gentlest start in the valley.
Great for: beginners, families with young kids.
Snowmass
Snowmass Village
The other great choice for beginners and families, with a strong ski school and plenty of easier terrain. At the other end of the scale, it also has some of the best expert terrain in the valley. Elk Camp, a great mid-mountain stop, is home to the learn-to-ski center, which is perfect for little ones, and has a nice outdoor deck with a grill for lunch.
Great for: families, beginners, experts.
Aspen Mountain (Ajax)
Right in town
For strong skiers. The gondola leaves right from town, so you can walk from breakfast to the lift.
Great for: strong skiers.
Aspen Highlands & Highlands Bowl
A short drive from town
Along with Snowmass, home to the best expert terrain in the valley. For the adventurers, hiking up Highlands Bowl is a must-do. Up on the mountain, Cloud Nine is rather infamous for the late-lunch crowd spraying champagne indoors. Not our thing, but we hear it's a good time.
Great for: experts. The Bowl hike is a must for adventurers.
Things to Do: Summer & Fall
Summer and fall bring great hiking, road cycling and mountain biking.
Hunter Creek Trail
Starts from town
A great trail straight up from town that takes you to a field of old mining cabins. It's about 1.6 miles up to Hunter Creek Valley. Dogs need to be on a leash on the lower trail, and bikes aren't recommended on its lower half.
Smuggler Mountain
Starts from town
A fire road that many locals use as a daily fitness session. If you're new to the altitude, challenge yourself to make it up to the lookout deck, with great views of town and the ski mountains, and back down in under an hour. It's about 1.4 miles up the road to the overlook.
Hikeable in all seasons. Bring microspikes if it has been snowy recently.
Hiking Up Aspen Mountain
Right in town
If you're really looking to feel the burn, hike up Aspen Mountain in summer. It's brutally steep, but a great workout, and you can take the gondola down for free.
Hiking at the Maroon Bells
Maroon Creek Road, outside Aspen
Trails around Maroon Lake and up to Crater Lake, right beneath the peaks. If you want to take the bus up, you'll need tickets. Book them ahead on the official reservation site. The shuttle leaves from Aspen Highlands.
Bus tickets required. Book ahead.
Cycling to the Maroon Bells
Maroon Creek Road
Road cyclists should try the road up to the Maroon Bells, open only in summer and early fall.
Great for: road cyclists.
Elk Camp at Snowmass
Mid-mountain at Snowmass, up the Elk Camp Gondola
A great mid-mountain stop in summer too, with family activities from a climbing wall to an alpine coaster, plus hiking and mountain biking trails.
Great for: families.
Rio Grande Trail
Starts in town and runs down valley
A great trail to ride. It starts in town and runs many miles down valley, so you can go as far as you like and turn back. It's just as good for a walk, or for the kids on scooters. Keep an eye out for deer, and watch out for bears.
Great for: cyclists, walkers, kids on scooters.
Mountain Biking
Around the valley and at Snowmass
A huge array of cross-country trails around the valley, plus lift-assisted downhill riding at Snowmass.
Great for: mountain bikers of every style.