Aspen in winter seen from the top of Smuggler Mountain, with the ski runs of Aspen Mountain rising above town

Destinations · Colorado

Aspen

Aspen is a special place for us, and we spend a lot of time here in every season. It's something uncommon in the US: a real ski town. Aspen is a proper gridded town with its own streets and neighborhoods, not a manufactured "ski Disneyland" owned by a single company. It isn't the place for a budget-conscious trip, but it rewards the people who come back again and again.

Where to Stay in Aspen

For couples, stay in the town of Aspen itself. That's where the character is. We know the town extremely well but haven't personally stayed at these hotels. We'd still recommend every one.

Hotel Jerome

Main Street, Aspen

We'd recommend

Aspen's historic grand hotel, right on Main Street and an easy walk to everything in town. If you're choosing between the Jerome and the Little Nell, this is the one we'd pick. It simply has more character.

Great for: couples. Our pick for staying in town.

The brick front of the Hotel Jerome lit up at night, with holiday lights and trees on the balcony
The Hotel Jerome on Main Street during the holidays

The Little Nell

Base of Aspen Mountain

We'd recommend

The in-town choice for ski-in, ski-out. It sits at the foot of Aspen Mountain, so if getting on the lift with the least effort matters most, this is the place.

Great for: couples who want to ski from the door.

The St. Regis Aspen Resort

Downtown Aspen, near the base of Aspen Mountain

We'd recommend

The one to book if you're using points, since it's part of Marriott Bonvoy. An excellent hotel in its own right, and in our opinion it has the best spa in town.

Great for: couples, points travelers, spa days.

White Elephant Aspen

West End, Aspen

We'd recommend

One of two newer hotels that sit a little lower on Aspen's price spectrum (which, to be clear, is still Aspen). A boutique hotel on the edge of the West End, a short walk from the center of town.

Great for: couples looking for a little more value.

MOLLIE Aspen

Downtown Aspen

We'd recommend

The other newer, slightly gentler-on-the-wallet option in town, with a relaxed boutique feel. Petit Trois, the French bistro on the ground floor, is a nice bonus.

Great for: couples looking for a little more value.

Fresh snow on the Aspen Mountain gondola plaza, looking across town to Red Mountain
Red Mountain from the gondola plaza at the base of Aspen Mountain

Where to Stay in Snowmass

For families who want a more contained ski-resort feel, Snowmass, a short drive from Aspen, can be a good option. You lose some of the unique Aspen experience, but you gain a self-contained village built around the slopes.

Viceroy Snowmass

Snowmass Village

We'd recommend

A polished, full-service hotel in Snowmass Village, and one of the two places we point families to when Snowmass is the right call.

Great for: families.

Limelight Hotel Snowmass

Snowmass Base Village

We'd recommend

A relaxed, easygoing hotel right in Snowmass Base Village, next to the Elk Camp Gondola.

Great for: families.

Untracked snow and nearby peaks under a deep blue sky, seen from Snowmass Mountain
The view of nearby peaks from Snowmass Mountain

Breakfast & Coffee

Swedish Hill

Rooftop of the Aspen Art Museum

We ate here

Our go-to for coffee in town. A beautiful rooftop with a view straight across to the mountain, plus good pastries. It also works as a solid, casual café for a light lunch.

Great for: coffee and a slow breakfast with a view.

Sant Ambroeus Coffee Bar

Hyman Avenue, downtown Aspen

We ate here

Another easy, quick coffee stop in the middle of town.

Louis Swiss Bakery

Aspen Business Center, across from the airport

We ate here

The best breakfast burrito in the valley, hiding somewhere you'd never think to look. The "Aspen ABC" (technically the Aspen Business Center) is really a light industrial park across from the airport, and Louis Swiss is near the back. If you're driving out to Snowmass for the day to ski, bike or hike, it's right on the way. Get the breakfast burrito, ask for extra hot sauce, and enjoy.

Worth the detour.

Paradise Bakery

Galena Street, downtown Aspen

We ate here

For a simple takeout coffee and muffin in the morning, and just as good après, when it serves the best ice cream and cookies in town. The local move is a bag of "chippers": really just mini cookies, but more fun.

Great for: morning coffee, après treats, kids.

A brick pedestrian street in downtown Aspen after a snowfall, trees strung with lights and Aspen Mountain at the end
Downtown after a snowfall, with Aspen Mountain at the end of the street

Cheap Eats

For an inexpensive lunch in town, these are the two we go to.

The Big Wrap

Durant Avenue, downtown Aspen

We ate here

A local favorite for wraps and burritos.

Grateful Deli

Main Street, downtown Aspen

We ate here

Sandwiches with Grateful Dead-themed names, and an easy, inexpensive lunch.

The Grateful Deli sign hanging over a snowy sidewalk on Main Street, with a rack of bikes outside
Grateful Deli on a winter morning

Casual Dinners & Après

Meat & Cheese

Hopkins Avenue, downtown Aspen

We ate here

Our favorite dinner spot in Aspen. It's not fancy. It's our Aspen version of that comfy neighborhood place you keep going back to. Get the bo ssäm board.

Our favorite dinner in town.

Clark's Oyster Bar

Hyman Avenue, downtown Aspen

We ate here

Simple but great food, and not too fancy, with a similar atmosphere to Meat & Cheese. The cocktails are good, and if you don't have a reservation, happy hour at the bar is a good bet.

No reservation? Try the bar at happy hour.

Mt. Rubirosa

Base of Aspen Mountain

We ate here

Very solid, casual pizza and Italian food at the base of Aspen Mountain.

Great for: families, an easy night out.

Home Team BBQ

Base of Buttermilk

We ate here

A Charleston barbecue spot with an outpost in a low-key hotel at the base of Buttermilk, a short drive out of town. It's not exactly about the ambiance (it's a BBQ joint), but it's great. Order whatever you like, but add the smoked wings with death relish.

Highlands Alehouse

Base of Aspen Highlands

We ate here

We'd argue it's the best après in the valley. Classic après pub food, a big sunny patio, strong drinks, and often a DJ or live music.

Great for: après-ski.

Shops and historic houses in downtown Aspen at dusk, with the snowy runs of Aspen Mountain behind
Downtown Aspen at dusk, with Aspen Mountain rising right behind town

Fine Dining

There's plenty of fine dining in Aspen, but these are our favorites.

Betula

Cooper Avenue, downtown Aspen

We ate here

French-Panamerican cooking and good cocktails, right in the middle of town.

Matsuhisa

Main Street, Aspen

We ate here

Chef Nobu Matsuhisa's Japanese and sushi restaurant, right on Main Street.

Petit Trois

MOLLIE Aspen, downtown

We ate here

The Aspen outpost of the Los Angeles French bistro, on the ground floor of MOLLIE, serving elevated French comfort food.

Aosta Ristorante

Durant Avenue, downtown Aspen

We ate here

Italian with an Alpine accent: fresh pasta, fondue and pizza in a warm, rustic room.

An empty chairlift chair above snowy pines on Aspen Mountain, with snow-capped peaks beyond under a clear blue sky
On a chairlift up Aspen Mountain, looking up the valley toward Independence Pass

Things to Do: Winter

Winter is all about skiing, and each of the four mountains suits a different kind of skier.

Buttermilk

Just outside town

We did this

Where beginners and families with young kids should head. Strong ski school options and easier terrain make it the gentlest start in the valley.

Great for: beginners, families with young kids.

Snowmass

Snowmass Village

We did this

The other great choice for beginners and families, with a strong ski school and plenty of easier terrain. At the other end of the scale, it also has some of the best expert terrain in the valley. Elk Camp, a great mid-mountain stop, is home to the learn-to-ski center, which is perfect for little ones, and has a nice outdoor deck with a grill for lunch.

Great for: families, beginners, experts.

A skier in a blue jacket and orange pants standing in deep fresh snow among snow-covered pines
A fresh powder day at Snowmass

Aspen Mountain (Ajax)

Right in town

We did this

For strong skiers. The gondola leaves right from town, so you can walk from breakfast to the lift.

Great for: strong skiers.

A bronze statue of a 10th Mountain Division ski soldier, rifle on his back, covered in fresh snow
The 10th Mountain Division statue in town. Veterans of the WWII ski troops helped start skiing in Aspen after the war.

Aspen Highlands & Highlands Bowl

A short drive from town

We did this

Along with Snowmass, home to the best expert terrain in the valley. For the adventurers, hiking up Highlands Bowl is a must-do. Up on the mountain, Cloud Nine is rather infamous for the late-lunch crowd spraying champagne indoors. Not our thing, but we hear it's a good time.

Great for: experts. The Bowl hike is a must for adventurers.

The Cloud Nine sign in deep snow at Aspen Highlands, with champagne bottles lined up on an outdoor bar
Cloud Nine at Aspen Highlands, set up for the lunch crowd
Snow-capped boulders in a half-frozen creek beneath tall pines on the Hunter Creek Trail
Hunter Creek Trail in winter

Things to Do: Summer & Fall

Summer and fall bring great hiking, road cycling and mountain biking.

Hunter Creek Trail

Starts from town

We did this

A great trail straight up from town that takes you to a field of old mining cabins. It's about 1.6 miles up to Hunter Creek Valley. Dogs need to be on a leash on the lower trail, and bikes aren't recommended on its lower half.

Weathered wooden mining cabins in a tall-grass meadow below a green hillside in Hunter Creek Valley
The old mining cabins in Hunter Creek Valley in summer
The same mining cabins in a snowy meadow under a deep blue winter sky
And again in winter

Smuggler Mountain

Starts from town

We did this

A fire road that many locals use as a daily fitness session. If you're new to the altitude, challenge yourself to make it up to the lookout deck, with great views of town and the ski mountains, and back down in under an hour. It's about 1.4 miles up the road to the overlook.

Hikeable in all seasons. Bring microspikes if it has been snowy recently.

Hiking Up Aspen Mountain

Right in town

We did this

If you're really looking to feel the burn, hike up Aspen Mountain in summer. It's brutally steep, but a great workout, and you can take the gondola down for free.

Looking down the Aspen Mountain gondola line over green slopes to the town and valley in summer
The gondola ride back down to town in summer

Hiking at the Maroon Bells

Maroon Creek Road, outside Aspen

We did this

Trails around Maroon Lake and up to Crater Lake, right beneath the peaks. If you want to take the bus up, you'll need tickets. Book them ahead on the official reservation site. The shuttle leaves from Aspen Highlands.

Bus tickets required. Book ahead.

The Maroon Bells and golden aspens reflected in still water beside a rocky shoreline in fall
Fall reflections beneath the Maroon Bells

Cycling to the Maroon Bells

Maroon Creek Road

We did this

Road cyclists should try the road up to the Maroon Bells, open only in summer and early fall.

Great for: road cyclists.

Elk Camp at Snowmass

Mid-mountain at Snowmass, up the Elk Camp Gondola

We did this

A great mid-mountain stop in summer too, with family activities from a climbing wall to an alpine coaster, plus hiking and mountain biking trails.

Great for: families.

Families at the base of a tall climbing wall among pine trees at Elk Camp in summer
The climbing wall at Elk Camp in summer

Rio Grande Trail

Starts in town and runs down valley

We did this

A great trail to ride. It starts in town and runs many miles down valley, so you can go as far as you like and turn back. It's just as good for a walk, or for the kids on scooters. Keep an eye out for deer, and watch out for bears.

Great for: cyclists, walkers, kids on scooters.

A mule deer crossing a paved trail lined with sagebrush and pines under a blue sky
A deer crossing the Rio Grande Trail

Mountain Biking

Around the valley and at Snowmass

We did this

A huge array of cross-country trails around the valley, plus lift-assisted downhill riding at Snowmass.

Great for: mountain bikers of every style.

Empty chairlifts and gondola cabins running down to Snowmass Village, with the valley and mountains beyond
Snowmass Village from the trails in summer
A rocky trail above a valley of golden aspens in the Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness
The Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness in peak autumn color, from the Maroon-Snowmass Trail